Twist lock climbing technique reddit. The AmD is probably also fine.

Twist lock climbing technique reddit Crack climbing is one of the most rewarding yet demanding styles of climbing, requiring a completely different approach than face climbing. May 7, 2025 · The 15 lockers tested in this review include six different styles of locking mechanism: the classic screw lock, three double-action twist auto-lockers (Petzl Sm'D, Petzl Freino, and Black Diamond RockLock Twistlock), a triple-action twist auto-locker (Edelrid HMS Bulletproof), a sliding locker (Edelrid Pure Slider), a screw gate with plastic Back then it was just screw lock carabiners and the 8shape belay device. Back when I was on the wall, I felt as if doing it was not necessary. The home of Climbing on reddit. This is contrasted to sport climbing, where you're always trying to keep your hips in close to the wall (except maybe on really juggy roofs, but even then, it tends to be a lot of twisting in for longer reach). Whether you’re on an overhang or a low-angle slab, the idea is to keep your weight pressed onto your feet. Some climbing communities will refer to this technique as the Twist Lock or simply refer to this style of climbing as ‘hip in climbing’ or ‘twisting’. grab the top jug with one hand and a bottom edge with the other. I have adjustable 4-section hybrid Z poles with a flip-lock for the top-most movable section (the section below the grip section), but the bottom two sections snap together and into the top movable section like a tent pole. once that feels good, get on some campus rungs and work that explosive power. Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery by John Kettle - A book of exercises to improve climbing movement. That being said, to add to everyone else's comments, the drop knee is good for keeping yourself close to the wall and reaching. So if you have any vidos/articles or just general tips please share :) (i mainly have problems with deciding when to cross legs/arms or switch hands/legs on the grip. (🇮🇳-🏍️) Place for all Indian riders to discuss news, reviews and motorcycle trips. Some climbing companies make rubber gloves for crack climbing. This helps to improve your technique and core strength as well while also training lock off strength and endurance. actively practice climbing straight on vs with a hip twist; statically vs dynamically; both feet on vs flagged; CoG low vs high & do this on varied terrain and hold types. The ability of the oppositional foot to keep a lock on getting the hips over the heel and the twist at getting the hips against the wall is invaluable. Though it sounds silly, I think it's helped immensely. The carbon fiber lowers are much thicker than modern trekking poles. at the end of a lanyard) and when connecting a GRIGRI to the harness" Yet, a gym employee tells you different. B. Feb 10, 2023 · Drop Knee and Back Step are used interchangeably to refer to the same climbing technique. simple and quick. 3 sets of 10) hands -- the dead hangs are good for hands/forearms, and i use a hand trainer or two. Many gyms have a crack or two, but the selection is always limited: Even the best indoor joints don’t represent the variety of fissures you’ll find outside. Consequently, a greater portion of body weight must be supported by the arms—which, of course, po… She's writes about it in her autobiography, and she describes it in an AMA she did awhile ago (I'll try to find the link). hold the position at the top and do controlled releases (negatives). There's no getting around it--after a certain point, it will become useful for you to learn about discrete techniques. Just saw this Pro tip by Malcolm Smith on getting stronger at climbing steep stuff. I like: "neutral, flag, pivot, stand, reach, capture, neutral" as the basic movement sequence for overhang technique. All things related to automobiles that move on two wheels. This makes good quality flip locks faster than any flip lock I have tried. Here's a list I put together for myself: Shoulder roll I strongly advise people not to buy a twist lock tripod. offset pullups on a hangboard. Generally, you want to size crack climbing shoes for all-day comfort and make sure As per title, I'm awful at climbing anything on an overhang (V4-6 on slab/vert, V3-4 on overhang). 5 Biomechanical Tips to Improve Your Climbing Technique by u/stoneyviolist - A sports medicine take on climbing form. Do not use a twist lock. So i am asking for some tips. Once this technique is autonomous, real progress is possible. TLDR: work out and stretch at maintenance. I'd first model the cylinder with the correct inner and outer diameters and floor height, then create a sketch where you project the top of the cylinder lip, then offset the circle to the depth of the bayonet, and draw three lines to define the bayonet channel profile. That said, keep the advantages you have! I also came to climbing strong (not as strong) and now I notice I miss strength in some movements I would have found easy. P. I get by primarily with passable technique and footwork and okay finger strength, none of which I seem to be able to transfer to climbing on anything worse than a shallow overhang. Step 1 – Pull-ups and press-ups. Cars related discussion is not allowed While a controlled lock-off on easy jugs on a hangboard appears to be fine, and is perhaps helpful, strenuous lock-offs while climbing have caused me and other climbers trouble. IMO, you're fine. When a tripod is collapsed, you can grab all the twist locks at once and unlock an entire leg with a single flick of the wrist. He recommends, when training overhanging, to train open… The twist lock and backstep are the bread-and-butter moves of a steep-wall connoisseur. This forces technique, and lock off strength. 22Mar17. Deadpointing and Drop-Knees When deadpointing, climbers should aim to begin the move in a straight-armed position (for both arms). Sep 19, 2018 · A triple locking carabiner (also known as a “3 way”, “twist lock”, or “triple action” or a “tri-act”) can be a good choice for certain climbing uses. Post latest news, reviews, opinions, pics, etc here. Camming your toes in cracks usually involves putting your foot in a crack smallest toe down, with the bottom of your shoe parallel to the crack and the length of your foot (heel to toe) perpendicular to the rock face, then push your big toe down towards the small toe so that the bottom of your shoe starts to face the ground. climb lots of terrain at your onsight level or just below in as many styles you can, repeating problems you’ve done “perfectly” or with radically different ways. They are OK, but they can give you a false sense of security which is Bad. The right climbing shoes go a long way toward making crack climbing comfortable and fun. S. Aug 5, 2022 · Today, crack climbing is often viewed as the territory of fearless dirtbags, but after this chapter, you’ll know the basic techniques for getting up these sunken holds. As the climber attaches quickdraws to bolts and clips into them with the rope, you will need to give a lot of slack. Motorbikes related posts here. Instead of pulling on holds, you rely on crack climbing technique—jamming your hands, fingers, fists, or even entire body into fissures in the rock to create solid placements. Accompanied by Youtube videos to support the exercises. Foot technique is your most useful (and the most misunderstood) tool. ) The idea: there are three separate actions that are required for the gate to be opened. You can definitely show and tell people how to do these techniques. Here's a list I put together for myself: Shoulder roll Static climbing requires a lot of body tension that you'll have to build up over time but it makes for a better climber and honestly you'll get more of a full-body benefit from climbing rather than just wrecking your upper body/shoulders every time. Choose one technique to focus on during each warmup. I had to forgot the WHY. Having two pairs of shoes helps me separate climbing to send and climbing to be ready to send. Also look out for getting tight. On every move, make your move to the next hold, but pause for 3 seconds with your hand hovering just over the hold before grabbing it. In my most recent rock climbing session, I tried to incorporate these moves on routes that I find easy (4-5a) but found it difficult to incorporate them into climbs. I had to think hard, to chunk down, find the essence. At the easier grades, "technique" is largely about what foot/hand goes where and what order. If you are using it as a belay biner I personally would reccomend getting something you can easily open with one hand because it can be a huge pain in the ass to open an auto locker while holding on to the rock with the other. Feb 11, 2021 · The problem with only climbing static is that it often turns climbs into a sort of fingerboard. I cut my strength training to like 10% of what it was prior and sunk all my time for 6 months into technique, tactics, and mindset, and came out of it climbing way harder than I would have if I'd just stuck to trying to drag heavier weights around. Which I find embarrassing. I also have a 3 section telescopic double-flip-lock poles. These two concepts provide a new, and flexible, approach to “locking out” our lower body, and therefore reducing the weight our upper body needs to carry. com/training/training-articles/twist-lock-and-backste The Petzl website specifically says about the Sm'D twist-lock: "TWIST-LOCK: specific use when quick opening is key (e. I came into climbing flexible and now it’s hilarious how tight my shoulders are. Oct 12, 2023 · Twist-locking refers to a family of skills, all of which are based on the same underlying concepts: the twist, and the lock. Aug 5, 2013 · The intimidating world of wide cracks is often regarded as more work than fun. For more info on Twist Lock, see http://nicros. I got frustrated and had to apply temporary fixes. I lost a set of keys due to this carabiner, luckily a security guide found them a few days later. I had never heard that before but… Indian Bikes Reddit community. Flip locks must be flipped individually. My mom got me $200 tripod that cannot be disassembled by accident. Rubber gloves are useful if you plan to do a lot of crack climbing. CLIMBING FOOTWORK. TL;DR: I bought a $550 tripod that had one of its legs come out while in use. Pull-ups and press-ups cover most muscles in the upper body and will help build the capacity of these muscles and tendons to deal with all the climbing you are throwing at it. And yes we are scared of falling. As far as learning technique in a gym, the idea of what constitutes technique needs to change around V4-6. No matter your skill level, learning and honing the following skills will improve your chances of reaching the chains (without puking). I’m impressed to hear about anyone else pushing themselves to improve, so kudos! They deploy quicker than any other tripod I have had - twist or flip lock. But the purpose of this post is to find out about specific ways, drills or approaches to climbing that might help with developing a technique. Hangboard Picked up a moon board ~4 months ago and my contact strength has gone through the roof. Basically she was in France climbing and got distracted talking to another climber while suiting up to go up a route and forgot to finish trying her knot (pretty sure she never went back through the figure 8). great for lock off strength and shoulder engagent. Climbing roofs on lead makes me feel like such a badass, even though I am climbing easier grades than a lot of the men and team kids (and strong women and enbies) at my gym. If your fingers are strong, moving static, pushing a portion of your weight through your feet, and keeping the hips into the wall creates a very consistent climbing style. Break them down into individual movements, rather than as a whole technique. A flip lock tripod will keep you out of trouble. The local gyms here all use them. g. They come apart to form avy probe and are easily put back together. I use to break cheap carabiners about every 6 months at work. I use an old Clog screwgate D when I use my GriGri The last part, sort of sitting out on your jams, allows you to lock into the hands more, and have more room to twist and lock your feet. Totally revolutionised my approach to climbing. It never crossloaded on me and I like not worrying about screwgates. Although they do require elbow grease, the challenge also provides a satisfying reward. Shoulder press, dips, etc. Clasp lock/flick lock, telescoping (not twist lock and not folding) 3k twill carbon fiber (light but better horizontal strength) Cork grips Metal clasps (instead of plastic) The good tips (not the ones that wear out in 20 miles) Decent straps (cheaper ones can rub one of your hands annoyingly) A. Go low-profile: Lace-up shoes are preferred for crack climbing because they have a slimmer profile than shoes with hook-and-loop strap closures. As the climbing surface tilts back past vertical, it becomes increasingly difficult to place a high percentage of weight on your legs. . (And, not such a good choice for others . Made from the same sticky rubber as climbing shoes, they are designed to protect your hands from the harsh demands of crack climbing on coarse rock. . 3. It is an indication of a possible weakness in your climbing. This is nice in some ways. Mar 22, 2017 · Treadstone Climbing Gym. I personally wouldn't worry about learning exactly when the drop knee should/shouldn't be used while you're climbing, but rather just remember that the technique exists and see when it works best for you. The videos others have posted are great, and watching + climbing with others is always solid. Sep 23, 2022 · This drill exhibits the basic locomotive patterns on the wall. Tl;dr: Get a GriGri. Lock off training. Hi Lately i have found myself traversing a loot as a form of training and i admit to a lack of sideways climbing techniques. Tape up and pull on a pair of canvas pants, a long-sleeve shirt, and some comfortable hightop Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 10 votes and 3 comments Shoes for Crack Climbing. If you are a beginner climber, use this basic climbing move to become efficient in bouldering Oct 30, 2015 · I call it the Eureka movement of rock climbing. Use a flip lock Static climbing requires a lot of body tension that you'll have to build up over time but it makes for a better climber and honestly you'll get more of a full-body benefit from climbing rather than just wrecking your upper body/shoulders every time. Reddit India bikes lovers gather here. Jun 6, 2022 · For example a twist lock move requires core tension and upper body strength. If you notice that you are twist-locking on the majority of your moves, that is likely too much. When you go to a hold, push down HARD with your toes to keep 3 points on the wall at all times. 1,4 M subscribers in the climbing community. hold for 2 seconds, do the other side. As a coach, I think this is not true at all. Go to REI and buy a climbing rated one that doesn't have a twist lock on it, it will last for years. The AmD is probably also fine. I had Feb 14, 2022 · Each climb is a Rubik’s Cube with an infinite number of ways to be unlocked, which is why climbing is so beautiful, interesting and addictive. 19 votes, 16 comments. That said I have a pair of Life Link twist lock poles for backcountry skiing and until recently backpacking, that are bombproof. Choose a climb In the v1/v2 range, and climb it 4 times without one of your limbs. Adam Ondra recently said that climbing with a rounded upper back is a sign of bad technique. At first, this can feel I still use the Megajul for alpine climbing since it can do it all, but I never use it for sport climbing. As for the carabiner, I recommend a Petzl OK Ball-Lock. The towel technique is also useful, it's also good to do a pull up (1 hand in chin up direction and other hand in pull up direction) and then when at the top of the pull up, let go of 1 hand and slowly and smoothly lower yourself Ab exercises: Hanging L-seat, L-raises, twist and lock (steep wall, two big jugs, twist your hips towards the wall and reach 3 feet above, don't grab onto a hold. Just at a meta-level, and sorry if its obvious – if you do every climbing move static, you use a ton of energy. This technique ensures your brake hand never leaves the rope, and you can lock off quickly as necessary. Learn techniques. I can do one arm pull-ups, lock-offs, pull-ups with 50kg etc. STEEP ROCK TECHNIQUE - Twist lock - Straight armIf you are new to climbing overhangs then, like most other climbers, you may have been too quick to blame la I've been watching rock climbing technique videos on flagging and drop knees. "Twist-lock" practice. But I climb 7a. Now i picked up climbing again and going through the courses, currently i am doing the rock climbing and mountaineering course, to get my verification again, but since then a lot of gear have arisen. The "autolock" is the lift and twist, and the twist is just the twist. Mainly that autolock gate works great for a few months, then starts having a terrible tendancy to get jammed 3/4 of the way to closing, because the little twist lock doesn't twist all the way. Or it's about climbing-specific moves like flagging or heel hooking. Take up slack accordingly. Some online sources say chin ups are fine, even though they make golfer’s elbow hurt. There's a happy medium for every move in between hucking yourself at the hold and locking it off completely. After running a few tests, my coach has told me that I have the strength of an 8a climber. Dec 29, 2023 · A good rule of thumb to keep in mind is that, even on terrain where twist-locks are more helpful, you should find that you use them only about 25% of the time. ptc hxi mxcphdpk fslth wec cfmo erg zqc qzgwqb ubcodk