Is rock climbing bad for joints reddit. Train for Quality Rather than Quantity.

Is rock climbing bad for joints reddit Been climbing for about 20 years. Dec 7, 2023 · The left joint shows a healthy cushion of cartilage between the bones, while the right joint has severe cartilage detoriation resulting in bone-on-bone contact. I love climbing and climbing hard and can't imagine having to give it up, but I certainly wouldn't want to have this condition get worse or linger all day rather than just 10 minutes in the morning. 5) and a pair of iatis (38) to compare. A long break will just make it come right back immediately with weaker fingers. With the right training and gear, rock climbing is generally a safe activity. Then afterward, I lotion them with a lotion bar called Climb On. Anything you do that makes you feel tired or sore that isn't climbing will take away from the quality of climbing. I was out of climbing for 7 weeks, and did rehab both before surgery for prep and after surgery. Peter Attia is a leading researcher in the relationship of longevity and health span - and one of his recommendations is to really protect your joints if you want The nicotine itself isn't very bad for you, it has some minor impacts on blood flow if used chronically, but theres not much evidence that its bad if used occasionally. I'm 36 and have been climbing indoors and outdoors for years. I (since my last climb) began climbing down every problem and rolling if I fall or jump off. Yes, pushups do reinforce internal rotation but I believe the compression on the scapula-humoral joint healthy to balance all the joint distraction (pulling apart joint space) that climbing brings. If you're risking the safety of others, it should be a joint decision. Currently I just stretch forearms and that's about it. Finish your training or climbing session with enough energy to maintain some semblance of good form. And I have had, on and off, for nearly the entire time this onset of throbbing pain that radiates throughout my entire arm. Lastly knowing when to stop and leaving some in the tank is also something to be learned, getting injuries kills progress like no other. Those three areas undergo significant wear and tear. If you're climbing indoors a lot you could be breathing more of this than is advised. I have gotten injured pushing too hard with any of those activities. I'm a 38 year old boulderer. If you do start to get a tear/flap go ahead and trim that piece of skin so it doesn't snag and tear open while climbing. Is this really a bad thing? Climbers had lower levels of osteoarthritis (though this may be because of self-selection, i. Because we have a lot of deleted posts on this subreddit, here is a backup of the body of this post: I've always liked the idea of bouldering and am considering starting taking lessons, however I have had life-long knee issues due to a sporting accident as a child and generally can't do activities that are high impact on my knees (like squats, running etc. Same concept here: if you keep working at it, you'll always be sore (though in different ways), and you'll just climb harder stuff. Also learned that the hard way. Many people pursue rock-climbing as a serious hobby. I decided to skip a climbing session after the last time. I can imagine that would make climbing very difficult. To train climbing we mostly work from John Kettle's book on technique training. Mar 28, 2024 · The simple fact is some people will not be able to climb because finger-joint pain will become prohibitive. This article had some good advice for caring for your calluses and it's what I read when I had bad tears last year. My biggest concern regarding your question is safety. But it’s just as important to consider the risk of injury in our lower half, where our knees are the most taxed from climbing movement. for me, climbing helped me with my guitar playing! never have i felt so smooth and easy! climbing works my finger independence, because the way you shift your weight on a crimp will activate fingers differently! and i have done so many wrist/shoulder exercises that they have become much healthier, my bad posture has improved and i never feel I’m curious too. Dec 8, 2006 · But can climbing — in particular the brutal stresses of repetitive use — cause it? According to a new study comparing 27 recreational rock climbers against 35 non-climbers, the answer, at least for the joints in the hands, is quite possibly no. Absolutely true. Honestly, there's so much out there it's hard to really give you a starting point. The catch is that the supplement needs to be available (again, with vitamin C) during exercise and the exercise should be light enough to not exacerbate the issue, and In general my right knee and ankle aren't that great, but climbing and training for climbing has definitely helped me out a lot - mostly the training though. Look around any climbing gym on a busy day, and you’ll probably spot climbing team kids, elderly adults, and all ages in between. Climbing is a sport where you need lots of finger strength. Knees are killing me, I think I have patellar tendonitis from it. It makes sense. It's more of a mental shift rather than a physical one. As a man with knees, knees are important and these things are a good way to put extra unnecessary strain on them. Take a short break from climbing for now, not too long. No matter what you do exactly, your fingers will usually be sore if you’re new to climbing. com Feb 27, 2024 · Ultimately, while rock climbing can pose risks for joint wear and tear, with proper care and training, climbers can minimize these risks. At week 7 I was a bit stiffer than the doc wanted, but I was able to go back to climbing and was fully back probably by week 12 or so. I saw a girl fall after a dyno where she landed with some forward rolling motion and broke her arm. I’d bet down climbing depending on the situation is actually harder on the joints. I hate the idea that there is no real longevity in my new sport. 5 strength to weight ratio meaning that you’re probably climbing at moderate grades and you have significant headroom for your finger strength to improve. I've been climbing for about 8 years. Usually tenderness on the palm side of the finger is pulleys. Even if they are very muscular this weight will put more load on their fingers which is not only bad for climbing performance but also a big risk for injury. I'd say in this grade range the most important thing is time spent climbing, and resting. The worst thing is I'm not able to smear because putting my weight on the toes with them scrunched at the front immediately starts hurting. I don't know if it's just me, but down climbing feels especially bad on my hands. So among these 18 weeks of climbing, you would be hangboarding during only 4 of them. I enjoy climbing high. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Related: I see people jump down from the top doing a 180 on the way down and I get ptsd flashbacks. ). . I’ve been climbing for about two months, three times a week. Other people climb once in a while as a weekend activity. Sometimes I get pain in my biceps, that’s beyond soreness. Climbing is a lifelong sport, but aging brings greater wear and tear on the joints that could manifest as arthritis. Also, I don't think bending your DIP joint without bending you PIP joint at all is common. But that not to say that push ups can’t benefit the climber. I'm 36 and just started climbing. These are kind of your 3 basic grips without dropping fingers or adding in pinches/slopers. Takes maybe an hour or two after finishing climbing for it to subside. 45 is a bit stout for her joints. I personally don't find climbing to be any more or less hard on my joints than running, swimming, cycling, or lifting. I'm not able to find any legit info on the topic though. It also states that climbing causes the bones in the fingers to be wider than non climbers, hypothetically proposed as additional bone deposits due to the rock climbing; not causing any negative side effects however. So, a combination of rushing to every hold, being kinda heavy, having bad footwork was probably what increased my risk for synovitis. See full list on rockclimbingcentral. Reminds me of my favorite sports quote where Greg LeMond said of cycling: "It doesn't get any easier; you just get faster". Start open handing immediately is my advice, crimp only when you absolutely have to, I fell into the trap of crimping my way through things my first 3 years of climbing and my open hand was absolute garbage, this lead me into a lot of DIP and some PIP issues. So where we're at now is this: we built a home wall (45 degree) and are planning to add 30 and 15 degrees eventually. A climbing PT could help you, or you could follow a shitty guide I have. I have pretty severe OA on many joints, especially the hands and feet. I always make sure to do some cardio before climbing and warm up on 5-8 easy routes minimum to make sure blood is flowing well. Climbing definitely takes it's toll on your joints though so if you have any nagging pre-existing shoulder, elbow, or back injuries it may get worse if you don't take precautions. It's all about intensity. We spend 75% of our training time not climbing. If it's walking from the bus stop to the gym, not so much. While i was almost exclusivly doing endurance based sport climbing, my mobility got quite bad, as its almost useless in this type of climbing. Hi there sp00kyversity. Maybe ease into climbing with easy hangboarding once your swelling has decreased. No regrets. Train for Quality Rather than Quantity. Climbing was worth the pain I have, to have had the experiences I had. Thinks to be wary of: - Jumping/falling down a lot - everyone should be wary of this, but people with injured ankles, knees, back and neck even more so. Plagued my climbing for like 2 years. Unless I've missed something, it hasn't been studied in climbing specifically, but otherwise it's one of the most studied supplements ever. Really bad on my right pinkie. I’ve been climbing for 9ish yrs and for 5ish yrs I have a problem with the PIP joint of my index finger. Learn to fall correctly, it makes a huge difference. Now my joints are so much better, probably mostly due to this stuff. Moisturise and care for dry skin when not I do use tape on my DIP joints when climbing to prevent hyper extension, but never tried it for hangs. Climb openhanded more. You really want to bring 100% effort to the wall, and time and energy spent on weights will never be as valuable as time on the wall. Watch climbers who are better than you. If you're into long days on backcountry routes with big approaches, then being able to get to the start of the climbing without being completely trashed is advantageous. Sorry for the delay! The surgery was a quick scope - I was fully put out but it took like 20 mins only. The synopsis is effectively that "adding gelatin to an intermittent exercise program improves collagen synthesis and could play a beneficial role in injury prevention and tissue repair," which could be translational to climbing recovery given the stress climbing places on tendons/ligaments. This is why I will never ever go to a regular, random doctor for climbing injuries again. it may be worth your time to do some background reading on it's known effects, generally, and decide if your seeing any of those benefits in your climbing and then try cycling it a few times to see what However seeing that climbing requires your whole body to undergo motions that are against the natural biomechanics of your joints might be detrimental in the long run in my opinion. spinning) Rolling rotation is really bad too. John Long has a good video series. There are actually findings that show that climbers fingers and hands actually adapt to the short, intense stress climbing … Is Climbing Bad for Your Fingers? Read More » I find it to work better for me, because the alternative is chewing up my hands while down climbing. It also forces you to be more aware of your foot placement as well as the positive aspects of any holds so that you don't fall off. Then there's the range of motion decline, which while not guaranteed for what you're trying to do, will still exist if you try those things, and will diminish your gains. As the arthritis progress a lot of grip strength is lost. Finger injuries are one of the most common climbing injuries and finger strength (in relationship to your body weight) is one of the most important indicators of climbing performance in Let's take the program from the Rock Climbing Training Manual as an example: it includes 4 weeks of general fitness, 3-4 of hangboarding, 2-3 of power, 3-4 of power endurance and finally a few weeks of performance. I loved the gym before climbing and so I came to climbing with a ton of extra/useless muscle. My climbing grade has drastically jumped, I will say all other factors such as sleep, diet, etc were basically the same throughout the injuries and climbing career other than my finger training. Right after doing a set of explosive pull-ups or climbing V2/V3+ I can massage between the PIP and DIP joints and feel a bit of tenderness but otherwise, I'm not too bothered. I’m not sure how much you weigh but for most adults your numbers here are going to be less than 1. Take it slow, or you will be dropping a few grand on physio in a year or so. considering doing rice bucket work for antagonist muscles of the forearms. Realised mountain bikong is too dangerous for me and thought I found the answer with May 3, 2017 · When it comes to climbing injuries, the spotlight stays fixed on the upper body: fingers, elbows, and shoulders. Background: I've been climbing for 5 years, and have noticed that my fingers have gotten more prone to finger tweaks as I try projecting harder climbs at my 90%+ limit. Why? It's your joints, you'll be killing your joints. Rock climbing has helped because I have a "good" reason for my joints to ache (even if I know they wouldn't ache much if this wasn't a thing, I pretend it's like DOMS instead of what it really is). e. Managing Dry Skin. Recently i bought a pair of tenaya oasi lv (37. There is a hugh bias in your data because people with smaller hands tend to weigh less which definitely makes small holds easier. Resting only made my synovitis worse. What It doesnt matter really I'd not change a thing about my climbing, except maybe wear more gloves or tape when I did the routes. The sport of rock climbing appeals to people of all ages. What I have now is overuse joint injuries because while being skinny is good for climbing, it doesn’t mean healthy, Especially if you boulder. I haven't really done much climbing specific training/hang boarding, I've just been treating it as a fun after work activity! I've been climbing 3 days a week for the last few months (to maintain sanity during covid), which is more than the 2 days I normally do. Avoiding injury when increasing activity is super important, since an injury can be discouraging and put you back on the couch. I really enjoy board climbing + climbing outside, and still value climbing highly over non-climbing sessions. Quality is always better than quantity. And i also can't wear them outside when rock climbing bc the pain is unbearable. How much base cardio fitness you need for climbing depends on what climbing you want to do. As with any sport, attentive self-care, smart training choices, and listening to your body are the cornerstones of enjoying climbing while sustaining long-term joint health. It goes away but not immediately. When you're only risking your own safety, it's your judgement call to make. You can try dropping the intensity, but if climbing doesn’t work out, there are other sports that will blow your hair back, if you still have any. Edit for context, I’m almost 40, badly broken knee (on a trampoline at 32) that still bugs me, climbing for 6ish years I loved the gym before climbing and so I came to climbing with a ton of extra/useless muscle. Rock climbing would be way too painful for me now. Hope this helps with your synovitis journey. people with bad joints might just never climb in the first place because of pain) Climbers have much bigger and stronger finger bones than non-climbers (the effect greatest in boulders, then sport climbers, with trad climbing having little to no impact) I know that hypermobility can be a huge asset in climbing and that climbing can help strengthen the muscles that keep the joints stable, but I also know that climbing can be an inherently dangerous sport for people prone to injuries, so I'm just trying to figure out if there is a light at the end of the tunnel or if it would really be a bad idea. The evidence for climbing is pretty limited, but there are some studies for other sports that suggests that collagen and vitamin C can help accelerate healing in tendon injuries. I always used my strength and power to cheat, and I was really really really really really bad at using my feet. My knees are both heavily injured and my finger joints are inflamed. However, there are specific injuries common among rock climbers that can occur. The same goes for bouldering and alpine climbing. Climbing made me the guy I am, good and bad. Basically I am wondering if there is an exercise that will make my muscles/tendons stronger in order to prevent my fingers from entering hyperextension at DIP joint at lower loads. In the scheme of bad shit, that’s not so bad. Barely any improvements in 2 years of climbing : bouldering I personally find that having DIP joints that hyperextend further that my friends' to be an issue, and most of the climbers I know with strong crimping ability have relatively inflexibile DIP joints. I'm planning to start open handing as much as possible when I start climbing again. The Self-Coached Climber or Performance Rock Climbing are two books that are good starts. My main question is the following: Climbing is considered a low impact sport, does this include falling from the top of a problem onto a cushioned mat? Eccentric muscle contraction (which occurs during down-climbing) works a give muscle ~40% more than concentric contraction (occurs during normal climbing). It almost never flares up when sport climbing, but when trying hard on powerful training regimens. There are lots of great climbers with hugh hands and i've known several people with small fingers who poped tendons crimping. Good points. Your knees don’t take anything close to a majority of the falling force. I cannot fully bend it (which I was considering “normal” if you climb a lot), it is puffy af and… that wouldn't be such a problem. Rock climbing has an increased following in the last several decades. To be clear, I'm not saying smoking is good, but occasional nicotine orally seems to help me try hard. It gives us something to do other than just try hard moves. For her, life just gets in the way so climbing consistently is tough, and injuries take longer to recover from, but when she gets into a consistent rhythm of climbing regularly and training, she quickly returns to being able to make good progress on v5-v7 problems that suit her. A mean, very physical guy with the daring to crush whatever is in my path. Also, it appears that these traits appear in people who boulder a lot and rock climb a lot. Just think about what you're doing. When i started going back to bouldering and short, steep sportclimbs i started strechting again. Chalks with drying agents could be worth experimenting with, but do be cautious of those with silica as an ingredient, as this is bad for your respiratory health. I still crimp pretty heavily when climbing and I suspect the nature of DIP hyperextension while crimping just causes degenerative changes (osteoarthritis) in the joint space (in my case at least). when you say rock climbing, do you mean indoor rock climbing? isn't rock climbing bad for the joints? just wondering, not trying to criticise Reply reply Zornocology Sport climbing does alot more for your power endurance (ability to pull many moves without much rest), but theres also a mental aspect to it, because when you're leading you have to periodically stop, hold with 1 hand, clip the draw, and then continue climbing, all of which adds difficulty to the climb (not to mention the falling aspect - fear Starting from v0, one month at each grade, only climbing twice a week with one session of climbing only and one session of low volume, low intensity after lifting. General skin care and management. Literally some of the worst advice a doctor can give for some climbing injuries. When climbing outside it takes more mental fortitude (meditation pre-trad lead for example has helped me before) than say bouldering in the gym. Hahaha "give it a rest". Rotation is bad along other axes too, not just vertical axis (i. ajzuij vxiur spoo ehiqv heq enfqw xuwea obcjg wyyrryo sev