Climbing sling vs runner weight reddit. You only use tubular webbing for climbing.

Climbing sling vs runner weight reddit ) Climbers often clip in directly to bolted or gear anchors directly with slings, and climbing above them with no dynamic component is when things get dangerous. Clip another QD between the bolts. If you don't have a belay device with a 'guide mode' you can belay from the top using a redirect. You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. If weight is the issue, look for specialized alpine harnesses like the one linked before. As explained @ 1:30-1:35 it's for redundancy. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. Preventing a fall is priority #1. I still bring a few tied slings for leaving on rap anchors, trees, etc so that I don't have to leave one of the $10 suckers. I just have a pre rigged sling on my rack where I just have to clip the bolts and have a bomber anchor with minimal extension. Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. 5x the single line rated load. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. Apr 25, 2012 · On slabs, the gear swings forward and gets in the way; on steeps, the gear sling swings back and feels like it is pulling you off. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. The most important items IMHO are shoes with good grip on slick granite and good gloves that can grip the cables (I think I chose a pair of weight lifting gloves). I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. Climbing slings and carabiners rated for 15-20kN. I'm a beginner sport climber though, so weight is not really an issue for me at this stage. I almost never climb with a gear sling, for this reason. ETA: I’m not concerned about climbing weight as much as overall pack weight for multi-day excursions. Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. only exceptions: two kevlar/aramid slings for tunnels. I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings , and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. 1x 240cm nylon runner that is rarely used, only for the biggest trees (and often as a basket hitch) or when the three pieces are in wildly different spots. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. $11. Jun 15, 2020 · Nylon slings could be made weaker by using less material to get compete better with dyneema slings in size/weight. My solution has been to take the long view. And if you are dealing with 2 nonlocking QDs when cleaning, clip PAS to 1 bolt. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. Typically still over 10kn. Runner/ Sling. Yes, you could achieve the same with weights, but I find that say for weight x, up to that weight, it feels like it won't move off the ground, and so it is far harder to determine when you're ready. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. dynamic is a moot point considering you should never take a direct fall on either spectra or nylon slings. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. There are 2 types of webbings — tubular webbing and flat webbing. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). 3, this works for wires, too) you’ll shorten the extension. Tubular webbings can be sewn or tied to form a runner or sling. Aug 18, 2019 · In general, climbing slings these days are made of two different types of fibers: Dyneema (or another type of Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight Polyethelene), and Nylon. A prusik sling for a chalkbag belt is a good idea, the minitrax is redundant. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. Specifically, buying oz runner kits and splitting the silver biners that come with them into two draws using a spare runner and two orange hoodwires. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. The home of Climbing on reddit. the single strand now has to take half the shared load. These are identical to a normal sling in strength and weight. Just belay from the ground. Apr 11, 2023 · A rabbit runner is a normal sling, cut open. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). in practice this increases overall breaking strength by about 1. Follower has a nut tool, maybe a water bottle. but it needs more replacing. There's a community for whatever you're interested in on Reddit. Paired with a carabiner and a sling I can put it around my foot and pull upwards or hang from a tree and pull down on when outdoors to warm up. 1. 20kg feels impossible to lift even if you're producing 19. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those I don't think it's a good idea - I imagine catching a lead fall could injure the belayer since the sling is really too thin to spread the load. A few slings are also made of a blend between the two types of fibers. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. best to gain experience using slings, cord, rope and develop a feel for what works best for YOU in THAT situation. In climbing your max sustained load is going to be approximately body weight, or maybe twice that if you have 2 people hanging from an anchor, say 400lb (2kN). Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. When rehabbing I put the sling through/around weights It’s a reasonable solution, adds little weight, provides an imperfect but usable backup should he drop his Guide, and equips him for self-rescue (a Guide, two friction hitches, and a sling make for a rope ascending system in a pinch. No real reason, just the nylon slings were really cheap & the weight and bulkiness doesn't bother me (except if you use them with those small ultra-light 'biners but I hate those things How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? I’m tempted to cut down to 6 alpines to save a few oz on biners, as I don’t foresee placing more than 6 nuts per pitch, but I’m kind of nervous about not having enough. half the strength and weight of a normal sling. if it is, you did something else very wrong. If that's your SWL, using the 5:1 ratio, you'd want 2000lb (~10kN) rated gear. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. As long as you leave your locker clipped into the sling and either locked back on your belay loop or clipped through the loop on your sling that you use to rap it should be safe because the sling can't unravel. Most alpine climbers will still take some tied nylon slings and/or prusik cord because they are the most versatile option for anchoring and securing the rappel. But it's like $15 (extra vs sling) you'll live to tell the tale. The one HUGE exception to my gear sling hatred is for some squeezes and OWs, where it is advantages to have the gear on a sling on the outside-side of your body. 95 - $22. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. a basic knot will reduce the strength of the rope by ~50% as a general guideline. i use dyneema for everything. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. Dyneema slings, on the other hand, have a higher load capacity at exactly the same weight, and a smaller diameter – which makes them ideal for adventurous sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and alpine tours. Sling Length I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. You will typically use a 2. And keep in mind anyone on the internet with a strong opinion hasn't had enough experience yet. That's all been replaced by dynema slings. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. Slings, runners Jan 13, 2022 · Ice-Screw Belay: A very similar rigging works with ice screws as well, but uses a double-length (120 cm) runner instead. Flat webbings are what you typically see on your backpack straps. 5kg of force. It saves a good amount of weight compared to the bulkier tied slings and they work just as well. By doubling the runner through the cam’s sling (fig. BLUE ICE Missions Light Sling. Yea seems like they aren’t making them anymore. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. Think I'm the only one that's gone back to nylon. TL;DR: If you like Oz carabiners the runner sets are a great deal. If price is the issue, just buy the cheapest certified harness available, that's like $35. Its stronger to connect 2 slings with a carabiner or use a long sling, but it doesn't strike me as that silly of a thing to do as long as you know the outcome. The GM Climbing 16mm Nylon Sling Runner is very thin and durable. I still usually have the extra biners racked as a football at the back of my harness in case I need them, but usually rack 4 or 5 slings on the sling (as shown in the video), maybe more if I am expecting a pitch with slung chickenheads for pro. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. You should clip your PAS to both bolts if possible. rock horns for protection, or to connect you to an anchor. This is probably mostly a climbing myth perpetuated by the article that's quoted in the above link So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. Do a slow gradual cut. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. I usually rack my nuts at the front of my front gear loops and cams running smallest to largest at the back (also front loops). 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. The stiffness is great to shove it through the tunnel. It has a recognizable aesthetic and is available in two different colors: a bright orange color that makes it easy to spot and distinguish, and a grey-rock colored version that blends more into the rock climbing wall environment. A fall factor 1 fall on a dyneema sling can break things. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . 1x 120cm nylon runner tied into what I call a "baby quad". The discussion over nylon vs. g. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. The girth-hitch masterpoint at an ice-screw belay, using a 120 cm sling. You only use tubular webbing for climbing. Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). 5, but don’t do this with a wired nut; the cinching action of the girth-hitch can cut the sling in a fall). ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. same as everything in climbing, the situation determines best practice. And yes we are scared of falling. When my dyneema draws became rather fuzzy from use my partners started complaining about them & I replaced them with nylon. As an aside I don't think anyone outside of totally new climbers pay full price for slings. If you don't feel safe clipping in with one PAS, back it up with a sling girth hitched to your tie in point with a locker on the other end. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). 95 How to Choose Climbing Slings, Cord and Webbing. The motivation being it's plausible that between a 22kN dyneema sling, and some significantly weaker nylon sling, the dyneema presents a significantly higher risk of harm to the user. How are slings constructed? Slings can be constructed in two ways: They can either be sewn or seamless. the knot might snag. If the 1st blows your gonna take a bit of a fall onto the second. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Aug 31, 2020 · Black Diamond Nylon Runner; Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best Climbing Slings for Your Needs Nylon vs. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. Feb 11, 2016 · While alpine climbing, when weight reduction is a major goal, Dyneema is used for the majority of quickdraws, alpine draws and slings (this lightweight trend is only increasing). sling of the purple c3 (only bd cam i own) See full list on outdoorgearlab. There is a third type of sling, made of cord similar to a climbing rope. Most common applications are alpine draws, slinging e. The extra length is needed to ensure the ice screws are situated at least 30 cm apart, so they won’t both fail in case of an ice fracture. Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. Even on my quickdraws and on my cams (DMM Drangons): less weight, lower bulk. Top belaying is often awkward in the best situations, I can't imagine doing it if there were an alternative. Reddit is a network of communities where people can dive into their interests, hobbies and passions. DMM climbing has some good videos and info on their website demonstrating this. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. Sep 14, 2006 · I used tied runners for a long time until I found the super-light weight 8mm Mammut sewn slings. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. Using a double length runner girth hitched to your tie-in, knotted as shown and clipped to your belay loop allows you to unclip one end from your belay loop and tether yourself to the anc Personally, I think the whole static vs. The second bolt is your backup if the first fails. For peace of mind, the added weight and cost of a useful protection system may or may not be worth it to you. . Pick just the extension you need and no more. Cheers. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. People who are good at losing weight aren't good at it because they aren't hungry, they are just good at ignoring it. If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. Add Titan/Spectra Runner - 9/16'' to Compare . The melting temperature doesn't really matter either - I don't think there's been a single documented case of melted slings in alpine draws during proper use. On my harness while climbing most multipitch routes I have a belay/rap device, an extra sling with a locker, and a couple extra biners. This. If you're on a budget, maybe the long knotted sling would have been more cost effective but both do the job, and there some real conveniences to the PAS. At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. I find that large cuts to lose weight quickly (1lb/week for example) also cause my performance to slip, I'm crankier, and feel more injury prone. I like to use a runner-runner (aka sling-sling) to free up some biners and room on my harness. and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag My climbing partner and I have been climbing outdoors for a few months and we use two 18mm Metolius nylon slings or a 10mm Black Diamond Dynex runner to set our tope rope. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. Gloves only for aid or FA. I hope that helps anyone here or future google search users that land on this page. If you can find second hand I highly recommend. You should also become more c Posted by u/hnbike - 2 votes and 10 comments I'd say it's a fine purchase, OP, particularly for sport climbing. 6 million pounds. On the back loops I keep 6-8 alpine draws (single length) and then 2-3 double lengths over my shoulder with a biner clipped on them. So, the benefit of a rabbit runner is more flexibility. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. Dyneema. Mar 13, 2024 · If you’re short on biners, try girth-hitching a cam’s sling (fig. Basically, once the ends are clipped together it’s identical to a normal sling. Double check everything, and weight any new system you set up before you remove yourself from the old Been a long time since I used 60 cm nylon slings for the last time. There I found a quad easier and faster to setup than getting the right length with draws. GM CLIMBING 16mm Nylon Sling Runner. One belay device and an extra locker is plenty. I still use the odd 120 cm nylon slings here and there, as it's a little bit dynamic and it's easier to untie knots. It may adjust when being weighted though. 5 cm (1 in) wide tubular webbing to build an anchor. com Climbing Slings. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. xpwni ygxv tyhzd vbqi ceid rybtbo dgm mft mjw jqz